|
The Secret Of Phan Thiet
Photos and Text by Martin Wilson
|
"Just
a few kilometers from the center of town, the hustle and bustle of bicycles,
cyclos, motorbikes and ox-drawn carts disappears..." |
 han
Thiet, a small town on the central Vietnam Coast, is best known as an overnight
stop between Saigon and Nha Trang. Few people know that Phan Thiet is also
the gateway to one of the most beautiful, unspoiled stretches of coastline
in Vietnam, if not the world! But the recent opening of a handful of small
resorts is changing all that. Just a few kilometers from the center of town,
the hustle and bustle of bicycles, cyclos, motorbikes and ox-drawn carts
disappears. After crossing the Ke bridge, the road transforms into a narrow
strip of pavement, beginning a spectacular journey that stretches the entire
length of the Mui Ne Cape, 25 kilometers into the South China Sea.
 Recently this undeveloped stretch of coastline, which fishermen and their
families have called home for centuries, has begun welcoming weekend Saigonites
and tourists. A little over a year ago, an
entrepreneurial couple opened the Coco Beach Resort, the first of it's kind
in the province and perhaps all of Vietnam.
Lying halfway between Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, the Coco Beach Resort is a
collection of 15 free-standing wooden bungalows. Just steps from the white
sand beach and inviting warm water of the South China Sea, guests can sunbath,
sail, bike, join a game of volleyball or just lounge around. The resort
also boasts a pool, 2 bars and an excellent restaurant.
I arrive just after dusk on a Friday evening and am greeted by Jutta, who
together with her husband Daniel owns and manages the resort. Walking to
my bungalow, the property is softly lit under the evening sky, the turquoise
swimming pool inviting, the crash of the surf a welcome change from the
horns and traffic of Saigon. I'm shown to an attractive wooden bungalow
with a front porch facing the ocean.
Inside it is rustic, but comfortable. My bungalow has wood-paneled walls,
parquet floors, attractive rattan furniture and an air conditioner. The
bathroom is spartan, but has hot water, a welcome luxury after the long
ride from Saigon. Except for the palm-thatched roof it reminds me of a cabin
in the Rocky Mountains.
After washing away the grime from the 200 kilometer journey, I sit on the
porch listening to the crashing of the waves and the chirping of crickets.
Fully relaxed, I'm tempted to stay put for the rest of the evening, maybe
the rest of the weekend! But the thought of cold beer and hot food soon
motivates me to seek out the restaurant for dinner. I wander back to the
main building, 100 meters down a stone path.
The restaurant is on the second floor. I opt for a table on the terrace
overlooking the softly illuminated grounds and the swimming pool. The crash
of the waves hints at the ocean in the darkness beyond. The evening breeze
feels refreshing.
Dinner is excellent. The menu features a variety of Western and Vietnamese
dishes with a seafood slant. For an appetizer I order squid sauteed in garlic
and butter. The squid is fresh and tender. I debate ordering more when the
main course arrives, shrimp, pepper and onion lightly sauteed and served
in a delicious tangy tomato sauce.
I choose a walk on the beach for a night cap. I've never seen so many stars
in Vietnam! Retiring to my bungalow I drift off to sleep to the sound of
waves breaking on shore.
 Awaking just after sunrise, I decide to check out the beach in the daylight.
It is high tide, and in both directions I see lines of people apparently
in a tug of war with the ocean. Upon closer inspection I discover the heavy
rope they are hauling in is attached to a giant net just beyond the surf. Fishing is a family effort, men and women from three
generations pitch in to bring in the catch. Meanwhile, the children play
in the sand, in the surf, on the rope and on each other. I'm greeted with
friendly smiles and waves as they continue with their work.
Returning with my camera, everyone is anxious for me to take a picture...of
someone else! A boy points to his father; a husband to his wife; a mother
to her her children. There's lot's of laughter. All the kids look through
my viewfinder. I go through 2 rolls of film in the next 15 minutes.
After breakfast of bread, cereal, juice, fresh pineapple, banana and coconut,
I point my motorcycle down the road toward Mui Ne. The fishermen are long
since gone, the colorful boats and fishing nets idle, the beaches deserted.
I pass an occasional motorbike heading toward Phan Thiet, some with branches
of green coconuts bundled precariously on the back. I have to ride slowly
to avoid the dogs and chickens. Everyone I pass smiles and waves; many shout
"Hello!".
Sandwiched between crashing surf and towering sand dunes, the road hugs
the coastline, rising, falling and twisting with the natural contours of
the land. In places the winding blacktop descends to within a few meters
of the water's edge! Coconut palms line the road as it continues it's journey
further inland through tiny villages of charming thatched roof huts. Children
stop playing just long enough to shout and wave. The journey ends at the
very tip of the cape in the picturesque fishing village of Mui Ne.
Except for the fishing boats in the harbor, there's not a lot to see in
Mui Ne. In fact, Mui Ne seems to be asleep, literally! The few people I
see out and about are friendly and wave.
Heading back, I stop at one of the several casual, beach-side restaurants
on the outskirts of town. Just across the road are the huge red sand dunes
the for which the cape is known. I scramble to the top of the dunes and
look back down. The view is spectacular, encompassing the entire sweep of
the crescent-shaped cape from Mui Ne back to Phan Thiet. By the time I reach
the bottom again, I'm ready for lunch.
 Talk about atmosphere, the restaurant setting is unbeatable.
Literally right on the beach, they even have hammocks set out for the guests!
I order fresh steamed crab and fish stew, then settle back in a hammock
with a beer. I hope lunch takes a long time to cook! Ninety minutes later,
refreshed from a short nap and a delicious meal of fresh seafood, I head
back toward Phan Thiet.
The success of the Coco Beach Resort has not gone unnoticed. A few kilometers
closer to town, construction is under way on the Phan Thiet Resort, a slightly
larger version of Coco Beach. Back in town, the Ocean Dunes Golf Resort
has just opened in time for the dry season. The spanking new 18-hole golf
course is said to be the best in Vietnam, if not all Southeast Asia. On
this day, the course is all but deserted. That likely won't last long. A new clubhouse and 110-room resort hotel are scheduled to be completed early this year.
Back at Coco Beach, I stroll the beach at sunset. The only sign of people
are footprints in the sand and an occasional hut tucked away in the coconut
palms beyond the flower-covered dunes. The tip of the cape looks deceivingly
close; I think about walking the entire way, but I know it's 20+ kilometers.
There's always tomorrow!
Halfway back to the resort, the last of the sun's rays bathe the beach in
a soft red glow. suddenly, a young boy and girl run down the dunes toward
me, carrying something in their hands. No more than 4 or 5 years old, they
stop about 2 meters short and look up with shy smiles. The older boy cautiously
approaches and hands me a flower, followed by his sister who places a second
flower in my hand. I thank them in Vietnamese and they squeal with delight
before turning and scrambling back toward their mother. I could not have
written a better ending to a perfect day. 
About the Author
Martin Wilson is the founder, editor and publisher of Vietnam Adventures.
|
